26 Feb Twist Overlay

Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico. This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes. This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.
While I wait for the local pleating house to finish their summer vacation, I'm moving onto the second phase of the Permanent Pleating Series - Garment Pleating. In this series, I'll be discussing whole garment pleating as originally inspired by the work of Issey Miyake (Pleats Please).
This is the third post in the Permanent Pleating series where we're looking at the pre-pleating preparation for a Sunray Circle Skirt and Mushroom Pleated rectangle. Our first post covered the introduction to the series - Prep for Permanent Pleating 101. And the second post has all the pattern making information for both skirts; Patterns for Pleating Project 101.
In this post, I'll cover the detail of drafting the patterns you'll need for this permanent pleating project, then follow with the essential pre-pleating preparation in the next post. Have a look at Prep for Permanent Pleating 101 if you'd like some background to this permanent pleating post series.
This is where it all started: The Dolman Coat. Inspired by a Yamamoto garment: the pattern making instructions were developed for a loose fit kimono block. For this sample I have used a polar fleece and for winter that makes it seriously snuggles. ;)