This week I've showcased #PatternInsights, where I share the light bulb moments in my pattern making career. In this shirt pattern development, I'm sharing two pattern making moves that early in my career caused me some anxiety. Anxiety caused by a lack of information and training. Thank heaven for my hero Natalie Bray! I am sharing the pattern moves needed to turn my basic fitted (dress) block into a loose-fit block and a basic set of moves to draft a gauntlet placket for a classic shirt sleeve.
The vintage inspiration for this weeks #PatternPuzzle has come from a pattern I found on the So Vintage Patterns website. Unfortunately, this particular one has been sold but they have a mountain of great vintage patterns for all eras. I was attracted by the asymmetrically-set, diagonal seams with gathered drape. But not so much the button decoration. By adding the extra seams I believe I have made it easier to construct as they eliminate the corner seams. I have also reworked the back view from the original design to carry the front diagonal seams through to the back dress.
You may be forgiven for thinking that we often torture the stuffing out of our fabulous #PatternPuzzle fans. Well, last Saturday was no exception. I did a slightly tricky thing with a 'grown-on hood' and it was enough to make the pattern shapes very hard to read. I have seen similar styles in both historic and current fashion and have waited some time to try this out on the blog. The idea I have is to cut this dress from my knit block using a merino jersey. That could be either a one-way or two-way stretch knit. The Double Drape in this Maxi refers to the #CowlDrape on the back of this dress and the #GatheredDrape on the centre front (CF) seam. The hood styling may also be considered a #CowlDrape with the large tuck and the centre back (CB) line on the fold.
Inspired by a delicate sketch in my visual diary from many years ago, the Transparent Bomber jacket is a summer season take on a recent winter trend for classic bomber jackets. This design will rely on a lightweight transparent fabric that will gather well with the elastic bands and still hold a soft, full shape.